On a sleepy September morning, off the corner of 31st Avenue and 37th Street, I noticed small wooden seats arranged under a small oak tree, and the gentle beat of "On & On" by Erykah Badu coming from a tiny café. The awning read, Balancero: artisan coffee and baked goods. Two blocks from the roaring engines of Steinway Street, this café provides a welcoming respite from the daily realities of life in New York City. It's nothing short of magic.
There weren't any customers around, but when I looked through the window I could see a slim barista prepping sandwiches for the day. In no hurry to return to my apartment, I waited until he arranged the sandwiches and approached the service window.
"Good morning. I love this song."
"Erykah Badu. She's a genius."
"I'm Sam."
"Shone. It's like Sean with an 'A' at the end. Can I make you some coffee?"
"Please. Black drip. Medium."
This was my first exchange with the owner of Balancero. It was a simple conversation, but it represented one of the features that make Balancero exceptional. It's a pure, pleasant, uncomplicated experience. I reached for my wallet to pay for the coffee.
"What's the rush? Pay later. Enjoy."
The coffee smelled earthy and sweet. It didn't have a distinguishing characteristic. It was just coffee, but better - like Shone had caught the real coffee out of a sea of admirable imposters. I sat outside to watch the neighborhood wake up while my coffee cooled. Other customers strolled to the window, often accompanied by their dogs and kids. Many of them clearly knew Shone well, and spoke with him in a language I didn't recognize. They talked and laughed together like family. A tall man sat down across from me. We introduced ourselves and exchanged small talk. We shared a love for basketball, and talked about our experience playing and watching the game. He told me that many of the customers were from Bosnia, Croatia, Serbia, and Slovenia. He recounted the ways the neighborhood evolved since he first moved here. It turned out we were close neighbors. When I finished my coffee, I approached the window to pay and say goodbye to Shone.
"That was the best coffee I've had in a long time."
"Thank you. We like to say 'let coffee be coffee again.' Cheers, see you tomorrow."
I walked home thinking about how extraordinary that visit was. It was so clearly the way a café should be. I couldn't wait to return and learn more about Shone and Balancero. In the weeks that followed, I met more customers, picked up a few Serbian phrases, and felt like part of my neighborhood in a way I never had before. Shone (pronounced Shawn-A) has an unmatched attention to detail for the design of the shop, the flavor of the beverages, and customer service. His past work at Employees Only and Macao instilled in him the importance of quality in both the product and the experience. He gives every customer his undivided attention, and adds fine touches that make the simplest orders feel special. He perfectly wraps the pastries by hand with a Balancero sticker, rips the straws so customers can easily remove them without worrying about germs, and makes drinks with precision. The man will stop at nothing to help another person. "Inspiring" doesn't begin to do him justice. After my introduction to Shone, I had the pleasure of meeting Zoki and Mia. Zoran (or Zoki) is a talented and experienced chef who makes delectable sandwiches and pastries. Some of his fresh daily creations include:
- croissant sandwiches with prosciutto, tomato, mozzarella, and pesto
- vanilla and chocolate custard doughnuts
- plain and chocolate croissants
- sweet and savory overnight oats
Zoki also has a masterful ear for music, and creates playlists that complement the mood of each day. On rainy days, customers are likely to hear the soothing strings of Ali Farka Touré. On sunny ones, he plays a combination of funk and jazz that creates a low buzz of energy. Customers sway with to the rhythm. The music and food entice first-time customers to try something new, but it's his welcoming and patient personality that brings them back for a daily dose of positivity. Mia shares Zoki's passion for music and hospitality. Her parents have both enjoyed successful careers in the business as artists and club owners, and Mia has absorbed so much of their knowledge. She has amazing stories to share, and fantastic recommendations for music. She adds a burst of vibrant energy to the café that provides a perfect afternoon pick-me-up. Placing an order with Mia feels like visiting a good friend for an impromptu catch-up session. Together, Shone, Zoki, and Mia built a culture out of their café. Beyond enjoying the experience, their customers play a major role in creating it as part of a positive feedback loop. The pleasure of getting a coffee there is feeling like you are part of the scene, part of the magic. The regular customers know each other, often spending an hour together talking about life, listening to music, and smiling as dogs and babies pass by. The regulars magnify the welcoming vibe, encouraging passersby to stop for a refreshment. Those new customers often return for the coffee and company. Balancero brings people together through a bond of mutual appreciation for life - for taking a moment to pause and share time with friends and acquaintances. This is what keeps me coming back. I've learned about the history of Astoria, the experience of immigrating to the States, the challenges and joys of opening a business, and the importance of community. When visiting, try not to come in a hurry. Take time to say hello, order a drink, and enjoy it in the shade. You'll likely meet a fellow customer (and a dog!) and enjoy spontaneous conversation or the simple pleasure of quietly enjoying the coffee and music together. Last, try out some Serbian! Here are some useful phrases to get started:
- dobro jutro (doe-bro yoo-trow): "Good morning"
- Živeli ("jiveli"): "Cheers"
- vidimo se ("viddy-mo-say"): "See you"
- ciao ("chow"): "Hi", "Bye" --> This one is technically Italian but we use it for everything.
